This is the full version of an article “Hiking the Unfinished Trail” that appeared in American Hiker, the magazine of American Hiking Society, in Winter 2011: Hiking the Unfinished Trail By Elizabeth “Snorkel” Thomas. Today I got message 'Couldn't load XPCOM' when I launched Firefox. It happens every few starts and don't know how to solve it. I reinstalled Firefox and it still appears. In this edition of Good to Know, Washington State Patrol Trooper Guy Gill shows us tips to securely load and cover trailer loads to keep everyone safe while driving on our roadways. The Mohawk Nation News is reporting that 28 mass graves of many Indian Children have been discovered in Canada. Many of these are at residential schools. Some of the schools were government run. Slab Thickening & Stud Requirement Table CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS Max. Assume walls are fully lined on at least one face. Assume full bearing on top plate (i.e.
Film Newbie: Loading & Shooting 1. The past decade’s explosion of digital cameras—or even our ubiquitous phonecams—have lured many new folks into pursuing photography. It can certainly shorten the learning curve when you’re free to shoot many different versions of a scene, or try crazy experiments, all for free and with immediate feedback. So for an increasing fraction of today’s photographers, film cameras are just a hazy memory. Yet there is still a powerful draw to recapture some of the “analog soul” of chemical photography. You can see this in the surprise popularity of the Hipstamatic i.
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Phone app, the success of Lomography- branded cameras at retailers like Urban Outfitters, and the recent re- launch of Polaroid- compatible film by The Impossible Project. For those who want to dip a toe into shooting the real thing, there is much to recommend a basic Holga 1. N camera. It’s cheap, widely available, and gives images with a distinctive dreamy flavor. And in general, any camera with the same large film format will give a noticeably different feeling from digital (something I’ve written about before).
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We’re talking about shooting the 1. Even if you’re an old hand with 3. So today I’ll give a visual step- by- step on how to load it, and how frame- counting works with 1. B& W—although there’s definitely more varieties available in 3.
If your local camera shop doesn’t sell 1. The “Arista” black & white film shown here is Freestyle’s inexpensive house brand—it’s a relabeling of some pretty decent Fomapan film from the Czech Republic. Tear open the box, and the film itself is sealed in a foil or plastic wrapper. And why have I also torn off the box end? I’ll get back to that in a bit. The rolled- up film is kept from unwinding by a paper band around the spool. Slide a thumbnail under the folded- over flap to rip the band; then peel off as much of the paper strip as you’re able to.
Now the tongue of the backing paper is free. Be sure to hang on to the rest of the spool, so it doesn’t unravel and expose the film. Notice that the backing paper has one printed side—and with different manufacturers, this can be different colors, white, or black. But the unmarked, dull black side must always be loaded facing the lens.
The backing paper protects the actual film emulsion from light. Here I’ve unwound the first two feet of a roll, so you can see the beginning of the film itself.
Exposing film to light like this ruins it, of course! But I sacrificed an old expired roll for our photo here. What actually advances the film is a tab in the camera, which matches the slot in the film spool. The tab might be directly connected to a simple knob, or to a more elaborate geared winding mechanism. You may come across vintage cameras (like Kodak Brownies) made for the very similar, but now extinct, 6. While 6. 20 film and paper are virtually identical to 1. So it takes some fussing before you can use 1.
What Frame Is This? When you buy 3. 5mm film, the number of exposures is printed right on the box. It gets a little more complicated with 1. So the frame count is different for different types of camera. Above is a nice Zeiss folder from roughly 7. B2” is just an older European designation for 1.
As it tells us, it shoots 6. However, many medium- format cameras shoot square 6. The trick is that each camera puts its red window at the correct height for its particular image format: Here the Zeiss folder has its red window at the top—this counts off the frames for 6. The film is pulled out to expose it, then rewound again to shield it from light before developing.
With 1. 20 film there is no rewinding (and so, 1. You simply keep winding forward after the last shot is exposed. Just as at the beginning of the roll, extra backing paper at the end protects the film—and there’s another band you wrap around the spool to keep it from unraveling. Fuji uses a nice self- stick band; but for the other manufacturers you need to lick an adhesive strip. This also means a fixed take- up spool is not built into a 1. Instead, after you finish one film, you pull out its now- empty spool, then move it over to become the new take- up reel.
What if you don’t have a spool to start your first roll? Well, you can ask for a spare from a lab that develops film, or from another 1. Every 1. 20 camera is a little different on that score; so don’t worry if you need a bit of trial and error figuring out how to to get your spools in and out. Move the empty spool to the take- up compartment—the one with the winding tab. Put the full roll of film into the other compartment, and draw the tongue of the backing paper across the film gate. Then thread the folded end of the tongue into the slot of the take- up spool.
Holding the tongue in place with your fingertip, wind the film a smidge until the spool seems to have grabbed the paper. Advance the take- up spool by a couple of full turns, to be sure the paper is winding snugly. But most film brands are printed with various stripes and arrows to reassure you the spools are still winding correctly. Then after a few last printed dots. Above, what I’ve shown is Kodak’s notorious, cruelly ambiguous #1, which throws off everybody. But yes, that’s really it. Most Holgas are supplied with a plastic mask which lets you shoot a smaller, rectangular 6.
The Holga lets you switch its red window between one setting (1. What is totally confusing is that it’s not the red window you match to the number.
It’s that (nearly invisible) molded arrow instead. This will make sense if you scroll up and look a the backing- paper numbering again: The frame numbers for square 6. As you go up in price and sophistication, medium format cameras usually have some automatic film- sensing roller, letting you simply wind forward until you hit a stop—and there’s your next frame. But even with these, there’s one manual step at the beginning: You must get the film- counter mechanism started at the correct place. What you do is to crank the film slowly until the printed “start” arrow lines up with a specific mark in the camera body (which, as here, might not be all that visible). At that point, close the back. All the frame counting and film spacing should be automatic after that: A few turns later, the crank comes to a stop and #1 shows in the frame- counter window.
After shooting the final frame, the wind mechanism will let you crank freely again, until the tail of the backing paper has wrapped up all the film. Then it’s safe to open the back again. Don’t forget to lick the stickum band to hold the spool wound up snugly. A Final Tip. Remember that end of the film box I had torn off in the second photo? I find it really useful to tape that onto the camera body somewhere, just as a reminder of which film I have loaded. Otherwise, if you set aside a camera for a few months, it can be a bit of a mystery trying to remember which emulsion type it was. Fancier medium- format cameras even provide a little slot so you can do this without getting tacky tape residue everywhere.
Have fun with your 1.